
(click image to enlarge)
This was taken from the ocean side of Diamond Head Crater, across Black Point, not visible here. This is what you would see from Waikiki if the crater didn’t block the sight line. There was a Japanese tourist present also at the time. What I tend to be doing at large on this island before dawn is another story that I intend to write soon. Frankly, I can’t believe what a great photographer I am. This was taken with something practically non-existent compared to the camera that I now own, a truly spiffy Olympus Stylus. Currently, I have a 2-gig storage card full of tyewtally awesome new shots that I will be posting in the coming weeks.
The Japanese are sun-worshippers. They are. This business of a Shinto heirarchy headed by the Sun Goddess Amaterasu isn’t just mythology.
You can find Japanese tourists all over this island who rise before dawn and go to the highest crag they can find simply to watch the sunrise. No fanfare. No kudos from those around them, because they’re in a foreign place which basically does not understand this behavoir, or care that anybody does it. But I care, because their sincerity is the only reason that they would do this. There’s just no other payoff for it here in Hawaii.
You don’t see this in Waikiki because sunrise isn’t visible in Waikiki. But sunset is, and at sunset, the whole beach is full of Japanese tourists standing at attention to watch the sunset, which are usually outrageously beautiful. No fanfare, no noise, no calls to cohorts to watch the sun go down. It’s not necessary. They’re like a school of fish, turning on a dime together at some invisible signal.
Then there are the “local Japanese.” Forget them at sunrise and sunset. They’re a different race all together. Ask them. They’ll tell you. They’re American. They’re all out being paid to drive trucks or set up and clean up one scenario or another, at both sunrise and sunset. That’s what’s important to them. But real Japanese are about beauty. They appreciate it, they demonstrate it, and they recognize and honor it automatically when they see it. That’s why they come Hawai’i.
And that’s true of Japanese Buddhism as well. There’s nothing on earth like Japanese temple architecture, when they stay true to it, which unfortunately, the local Japanese lineages mostly haven’t. They got the archetypes for it from China, but the Chinese have never, and will never, rise to Japanese woodcraft. There’s no dance more beautiful than Japanese Obon. There’s nothing as beautiful as Japanese liturgy, because they know when to shut the hell up. They know when one more bell, or one more damnable praise, to anyone at all, will destroy the entire mood of the Sangha. It’s called listening, I think. The Dharma guardians will clue you to this stuff if you care to listen to them.
A unique part of the beauty of the Japanese Buddhist temple liturgy is O-Higan, an observance which is unique to Japanese Buddhism, and which is a solar observance. (The Kanji for Higan, 彼岸, mean “other shore.”) Higan happens at the time of the vernal and autumnal equinoxes, and it is a time of remembering the six paramitas, a basic aspect of the Buddha’s fundamental teaching.
A couple of days ago, sitting on the beach at Waikiki at sunset, I was reminded of why the equinoxes are so important to traditional Japanese culture. It’s because they’re islanders, and always have been sailors. When you can see the ocean, you’ve got a flat horizon and that changes the entire usefulness of the heavens, and your whole way of relating to them. At the horizon, the equinox occurs when the sun rises dead east, and sets dead west. Always. All latitudes. There’s your compass, as long as you can see the stars. When it’s not the equinox yet, you still know where east and west are, because you know where the zodiac is, and you know from the time of year where that is in relation to east and west.
So we relate the six paramitas to the equinoxes, because they are equally important to us.
Namu Amida Butsu
Xing Ping